EPILOGUE

Hi folks it has been a while since I have posted anything on my blog but I needed to process the Pilgrimage i partook in my head and also to heal my poor suffering feet after all the abuse I gave them pounding the many kilometres that I walked to Santiago, 1000ks in all!. I realised that nothing can prepare the body and mind to walk the Camino De Santiago in all its length, almost everyone that I met along the way seemed to be suffering from the effects of blisters callouses and sores on their feet, I also developed the painful condition of something i later found out was plantar fasciitis, or policeman’s flat feet!. Many people I chatted with also seemed to be suffering from painful Tendonitis in their knees and ankles and were trying to manage the pain each day whilst they were walking. On the many plus side of things I found that the peace I found myself in, walking on my own every day was priceless mind expanding and simply amazing. Some days I would be walking for many hours in such a state of harmony and peace with only with the sounds of nature surrounding me, and because I was walking slowly I noticed almost every very acute detail along the path, ranging from the odd wild strawberry growing in a little pocket of sunshine, to watching many numerous birds of prey soaring high above me in the sky. Another great thing about walking along the Camino is the comradeship felt with the many other Pilgrims all walking and heading towards the common goal of Santiago De Compostella, I feel that we are all connected in some way towards getting there and everyone I meet collectively helps each other out emotionally and spiritually even if they don’t realise that they are doing this, I can now understand how so many pilgrims come along, or are drawn to come this ancient pathway. Most of the Albergies I stayed at whilst walking to Santiago were modern, comfortable and very welcoming, most with good facilities and many of the hospitaleras running them went out of their way to make the many pilgrim’s feel comfy and at home when they arrived after a tiresome days walk. The only complaint I have about the albergies is that all of them are making huge profits from the pilgrims that pass through each day and then not reinvesting the profits into the albergies so one can simply not help the feeling of being a cash cow. The other thing that I noticed whilst walking along was that a lot of the pilgrims had huge rucksacks on their backs filled with who knows what!, this seemed to reflect the amount of baggage they carried in their minds too, as the ones i met that carried little seemed more at peace, one comes to realise as one walks that not too much is needed in material things to survive, all we really need in life is good suitable clothing for the climate were in, good food, and clean water, and a comfy place to sleep at night, that’s all, anything else is all material wants not needs!. I tried many ways of managing the many blisters and a corn I suffered with, at the end of each day I would thread cotton onto a sterilised needle and then pierce the blister with it leaving the cotton hanging out of each end allowing the blister to drain overnight I also rubbed alcohol onto the other parts of my feet that didn’t have the blisters, and I would then give my feet a good massage. I then found that the blisters reappeared by the end of the next days walk so the very same process was then repeated again. May i say i hope you have enjoyed reading this blog in its entirety. Since returning to the UK I have had many ideas running around in my head as to what adventures I should embark on in the near future, I am always open to suggestions from anyone that manages to enjoy reading my posts on here. I am currently focusing on manifesting monetary abundance so any donations are gratefully received, hit the donate button on the right of this page.

9th of April 2012

9/10th of April 2012 Melide to Santiago de Compostela i made it to Santiago and the Cathedral feeling glad to have finished but also simply physically unable to walk one step further. My feet had decided not to go back in my boots, i made a mental note and reminder to myself never to buy this brand again, the five blisters on my feet i had nursed all the way from Leon. Upon entering the Cathedral i could not walk around i simply sat on a pew somewhere discreet and wept like the tide was on its way out. I just sat outside of the cathedral in Santiago for many hours after with my sandals off the shoes were thrown away to one side of me and throbbing feet being aired,like the many other pilgrims sat all around the huge square that all seem when i look at them to have something wrong with either their feet or something on a part of their bodies, but all with looks of serenity and relief. I eventually hobble off a few hours later to go find the pilgrims office and collect my Compostela certificate and be formally congratulated by the assistant and i am so relieved to have finished this walk that i started what seemed so long ago and words simply cannot describe how elated i fell at this moment.I seek out one of the lovely restaurants for some good food for I seriously need to take some time out now so i will come back on here at some point in the future and write and expand some more,i appreciate any feedback and comments on any of these posts.......................

8th of April 2012

8th of April 2012 Portamarin to Palais de Rel then onto Melide. I feel good today after the rest i managed to secure yesterday in the fleshly laundered sheeted bed and after a good breakfast at the hotel,after breakfast i head out from the hotel and head out of the high street trying to make the yellow arrows out along the way,the temperature is colder today theirs a thick fog all around me and i have got a jumper and my jacket on and also my thinsulate hat it that cold,my feet are still sore and the blisters seem to be still there despite using dofferant methods all along the way like smothering my feet in vasaline then when i lost that a compeed speed stick,all of these methods being unsucessfull in dealing with my blisters. The Camino overnight has changed from being a very pleasent solitary experience to one of seing huge parties of supported groups of pilgrims all wandering along in throngs chatting at the tops of their voicesexcercising their overinflatted egos,they dont carry any bag on their backs and all their gear is transported along for them in vans that constantly pass by them.These pilgrims then stop at lunchtime at a predestined place where their lunch is then all laid out in front of them on a table, The graffiti has increased along this part of the route too every sign seems to be covered in little tags. The swirling mist eventually burns itself up by the sun by about 1pm and it becomes lovely and warm and i take my jacket of and put it back into my bag,i even manage at one point ot find a little peace in a field to take my shoes off and earth myself for a while,al i could hear the whole time i lay there was shouts from the pilgrims at me for a "buen Camino". My blisters are killing me and i finally reach Palais de Rel at about 4:30pm closely followed and surrounded by the loud throngs of many merry pilgrim groups.I enter the main albergie in the town and have to wait at least five minutes for the three Spanish girls in front of me in the Que,when i gave the lady hospitalera my passport to stamp she asks to see my real passport and as i lean down to get it a guy justs pushes past me and gives her a huge stack of maybe 20 passports to stamp and i look and there seems to be a massive crowd now all around me,this i find just a little too much to handle and decide to leave in disgust i walked across the road and had a big bowl of spaghetti bolonaise and an ice cold beer to cool me down,i then decide to get into a taxi which takes me 15ks down the road to a place called Melide,here in this town i was recommended a really good hotel with a great room very modern and very clique and the main thing was i was now away from these hideous crowds,its here on contemplation that i decide i am not enjoying walking this part of the Camino......

3rd of April 2012

3rd of April 2012 Molinaseca to Villafranca 39,700 steps on my stepometer. I found todays walk a little bit difficult because it was a huge distance to travel and also my legs were aching proper bad from coming down of of the mountain yesterday,the weather has seemed to turn a bit today and its cold and also overcast with rain threatening,i plod on the path for many miles till i reach Ponferrada where i get accosted by three very enthusiastic Jehovah witnesses trying to get mt to convert,not knowing to much Spanish help me escape them as none of them spoke any English. After many miles more walking i finally arrive in Villafranca del Bierzo roughly 8 hrs after setting off,extremely tired i like crawl into the albergie called Ave de Phoenix which seems to be a very quirky place somewhere that wouldn't go amiss in the Himalayas,they serve a communal meal at 8 pm for 8 Euros to all the pilgrims and this i found very good and very tasty and the hostel was full with pilgrims staying too,secretly i go off into a dream wishing that tomorrow i will rest with my feet up and maybe treat myself to a hotel,hmm let me see how i feel in the morning........

7th of April 2012

Sarria to Portomarin. I didnt sleep very well last night as i kept on waking up with a very peculiar pain in my right ankle, the bed i slept in had a plastic cover on it was hilarius every time i moved around on it it squeeked two of the other pilgrims i was sharing the room with snoored like elephants. I left the albergie at about 8amand didnt get very far before being lured into the most lovely italian restaurant/cafe for a lush breakfast of coffee, croisants with jam yogurts, fresh fruits and juice, mmmm delicious.I then attempt to walk out os Sarria in the pouring rain with a horrible pain in mt left ankle. I didnt seem to get to far before the painim getting seriously takes more energy than i can muster to be able to walk on it so decide to call a taxi to take me the rest of todays planned walk of about 20ks to Potomarin. Here i decide to treat myself as its still early like 10 to treat myself to a nice hotel for the night, i cant remember its name but its the only on in Poromarin,the room is immaculate theirs freshly laundered sheets on the bed clean towels in the bathroom, even a piddly little bath. I lay on the bed and fall almost instantly to a well earnt sleep. I come around from my lovely sleep at around 7pm and go out to find some food in the town before i crawl back into bed.

6th April 2012

6th April 2012 Triacastela to Sarria 25,800 steps on my stepometer a beautiful walk in nature today I leave the albergie at 7:30 just as it was getting light and the way is peaceful and not too hard going the temperature isn't too cold and slight drizzle rain, the path leads through lush forests of oaks, silver birch and hazel I hear cuckoo's singing and the odd woodpecker sounds, many small streams and rivers, and after a couple of hours solitary walking amounst the sounds of nature the path starts ambling downwards towards Sarria in the distance, I reach the city at about 1pm and decide as it's good Friday to finish here for the day.I find a great albergie called Don Alvardo which is one of the last up the main street on Rua Maior,they have a nice light reading room in the bath plenty of bathrooms one even had a bath and bidet in, their was also an amazing room towards the rear of a nice garden that had a huge Gothic almost like a castle fireplace of which in the evening this had a gorgeous roaring fire in, and as it was good friday many a bottle of herb liquers were tippled after a huge pilgrim meal. a trully Buen Camino.

5th April 2012

5th of April 2012 Laguna de Castilla to Triacastela. 32,580 Steps on my stepometer. Had a lovely night's sleep in this immaculate albergie and when I wake its snowing outside and very cold like -2 degrees so I put my waterproofs on and head up the hill towards O Cebreiro in very little visibility the track goes for about 2ks before it reaches the village here I meet many other pilgrims that obviously made it this far last night it's still snowing but the trees look amazing with their covering of white.my feet are sore today But I carry on regardless it's so cold so I keep up a good pace till I reach Hospital de la Condesa where I stop for a coffee and croissant I plod on through the snow looking like a snowman to Ponfria another 7 ks or so here I stop in the second cafe where the lovely lady makes me the best hot potato and bacon tortilla yet to eat in Spain along the Camino,the fire was on in the cafe so I take the opportunity to slip my socks off for a while and let my seriously throbbing feet have some well needed air. Ive found that all the blisters i have on my feet simply arent going so every night i take of my socks which consist of a thick speciallist made hiking sock as an outer and a very thin bamboo pair as liners,i run cotton through them with a sterlised neddle and let them drain, the next morning they are always drained but i found that by the end of the next days walking they were back again day in day out, so unfortunatley i found no cure for my blisters i could only try to just manage them every day, and also massage my aching muscles with deep heet max strength as often as they needed. After my pit stop and foot airing session, I feel very refreshed and full of energy and at about this point the path heads steeply down for another 10ks and finally leads into the pretty little town of Triacastela where I choose to stay at the albergie called Aitzenea,the sun even tries to make an appearance,the albergie here is spotlessly clean and the showers are lovely and hot,I manage to wash my well needed to be washed clothes, spin them in the spinner and hang them on the line to dry.

4th of April 2012

4th April 2012 Villafranca del Bierzo to Laguna de Castilla 40,109 steps on the stepometer. Today the muscles in my calfs are very stiff and It takes about half an hours walk for them to warm up,this with the many blisters I have covering my feet, and that i didn't get a good nights sleep last night in the albergie because it was proper rammed packed with pilgrims , makes for a lot of uncomfortable pain,I decide to take the recommended route out of Villafranca towards the mountain village of Pradela,the path is super steep and I seem to be the only one that takes this route it's very beautiful but extremely hard going because of the pain in my feet every time i take a step,the path up the mountain is awash with beautiful lavender and pink and white flowering heather all flouring in natural abundance all around me. It's only when I manage get to the village at the top on a plateau about three hours later, that the path heads very steeply down to Trabadelo I wish I hadn't taken this route,I arrive at the bottom with seriously shaking legs and have a rest but not for too long as my muscles lock up when I do and it takes them a good ten minutes of walking to warm back up,the path at this point heads up and up and up some more and eventually I reach Laguna de Castilla where I decide to rest for the night very tired and with extremely sore blistered feet. I honestly don't know where I found the energy for today's walk but tomorrow the thought of Santiago beckons and I will find somewhere the energy to cross over into Galicia.The albergie here came recommended by a group of Spaniards that i was walking the Camino and doing a bit of Yoga with for a few days.It was called La Escuela, it was run by a lovely family for 9 Euros, it was immaculate each room only having four beds in and each room having a pristine bathroom with plenty of hot water for a shower in.

2nd of April 2012

2nd of April 2012 Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca 37,699 steps on the stepometer. Today has by far been the hardest walk of the Camino so far but also the most fulfilling. I woke up a little later than I usually do because I had a glass of wine with my meal last night which is unusual for me them went downstairs and joined the other pilgrims for breakfast I then went and packed my bag before heading out of the village.the sky's are clear and the weather is very pleasant today. The views going up were stunningly beautiful with lush pasture and apple trees blossoming,the heather is out in flower too gorgeous bright whites and pinks amoungst the green bushes, a local passes me on horseback going the other way on the track after a bit I reach the village of Foncebadon and stop in the albergie called la Cruz de Ferro for a drink and savour their open fire complete with crystals and pictures of lovely thinks I secretly wish I had reached here yesterday for tge night another 2ks on I reach the highest point of the Camino and the actual Cruz a huge pile of rocks left by the hundreds of thousand previous pilgrims,I pause here for a while and leave an orgone generator I made and a rose quartz heart on the pile,the path then leads down to Manjarin an abandoned village with a very medieval place some pilgrims stay at,the views are stunningly beautiful very panoramic too, the path heads up for a bit before going very steeply down for a few ks to reach the lovely village called Acebo where I have a coffee and tortilla sandwich. Still heading sharply down the path reaches Reigo de Ambros then after what seems like a scrabble down the mountain,I'm in my own little bubble concentratiny very hard on where I'm planting my feet when a huge snake goes rushing past me on the path,it shocked me bad to say the least,the path winds down and down and it finally gets to the quant little town called Molinaseca at the bottom where I soak my throbbing blistered feet in the super cold stream before I go over the medieval bridge to go find an albergie called Santa Maria that's on the other side of the town,the beds are comfy and the shower seriously powerful.

1st April 2012

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino 27,582 steps on my stepometer. I leave the city at about 8am just as the sun rises where the path drops down and over a bridge over the A6, there is quite a few pilgrims on the path today and when I can see for a distance I see then spread out for a few miles, I stop in a lovely bar/albergie in a village called Santa Catalina de Somoza and buy a bottle of cold water to drink, here many pilgrims have also stopped for a break too, after my refreshment I head along the path, it's hot today but I bought a new hat yesterday that has a piece of cloth around the back to protect my neck, I feel and probably look like a French foreign leigonare. This path today is stunningly beautiful about 13ks of nature walking in amongst the forest and hills to reach my destination for the day, I am staying in the hostel run by the London based confraternty of St James, I am the first pilgrim to stay here this year as it has only just opened today after being shut for the winter, I'm greeted by a very friendly Scottish hospitallera.

hospital de Orbigo to Astorga 31st March 2012

T Hospital de Orbigo To Astorga 23.500 steps on the stepometer the room was tiny in the 17th century hostel and was full of pilgrims but I slept soundly anyway and after waking up I pack everything together and walk out of town to where the path splits into two I take the left path and hit the flat open countryside, and I meet and walk with a young couple from America, it's a bit cold on my ears because the sun is just rising up over the horizon, after a few ks walking the path runs alongside the n120 road for a bit before heading right toward the village of Santibanez de Valdeiglesia which has a bar where I grab a coffee, here I was offered a. Cheese, ham and advacado sandwich lovingly made by the Americans.The path from this point heads up out of the village into a beautiful piece of countryside and then works its way through a forest of Holm oak and up to a high point where the cathedral at Astorga can be seen in the distance,it's now quite hot, I stop to have a drink and banana at a stall run by a really friendly Spanish man where everything's free and quality too.About another 5k on the path drops down and finally comes into Astorga a really picturesque small city with a beautiful cathedral and a museum built by Guadi the main square has an amazing ancient clock face and is stunning, the city even has a famous chocolate museum, mmmm yummy.the albergie I stay in is called San Javier just near the cathedral, the beds are clean, comfy and my feet get treated to a hot salt foot bath and then some attention by the resident nurse, I feel like I've landed in heaven on the Camino, I have a great nights sleep here.

30th March 2012

20,400 steps omn my stepometer today Villar de Mazariffe to Hospitol de Orbigo. Had a great sleep last night and woke up feeling refreshed from it at 7am, i pack up my things into my backpack and go downstairs and have a coffee at the bar before i head off on the trail.my feet are sore today from the corn i have on my little toe and also from the blisters i had on both heels from yesterdays walk, this was caused by my insoles that i have put in my boots to help my foot condition of plantar fasciitis.I walk a lot slower today but this dosent seem to help too much and this then gives me another huge blister on the other little toe.The road is very flat out of the village and the fields strech out for many miles around and it looks like maize is being grown here,the sun comes up very soon after i set off,a couple of hours into my walk i reach a sleepy village called Villavante and have another coffee at the bar and this is where i meet three fellow pilgrims on the path to Santiago,a couple one who is English the other that is South African that both live live in Barcelona, and also an English lady that lives in Brighton.We all walk together to the next town when i decide that i am done for the day its only 11:30am when i arrive.The albergie here called Karl Leisner in the center of town is very beautiful and also very peaceful it is 17th century with a central courtyard and also a grassed garden out of the back.Theirs not a cloud in the sky and its probably 22 degrees again today.I find the pharmacy and buy some blister plasters and also a couple of mini silicon tubes to put over my little toes to stop the rubbing and hopefully this will sort the problems i have out,i will let you all know!!!

Leon to Villar de Mazarife

29th March 2012, 22k or 32,114 steps on my stepometer Leon to Villar de Mazarife.I spent what felt like forever trying to get to sleep last night I ended up reading and finishing the book I started to read on the train to Leon white fang by Jack London and probably drifted off around 2am I then woke up just after 6:30 when everyone in the albergie was packing their bags to leave, breakfast was bread and jam and coffee,I needed the coffee more than the food and I got out at about 7:30 it was still dark outside as I headed towards the cathedral and then the outskirts of the city I was wearing my jacket as it was 4 degrees about 7k into the walk the path veers off the road and heads into open countryside I stop in a few bars along the way for refreshments and arrive at my destination for the day at 4pm I have a few blisters from today's walk to lance and I have a room to myself tonight and I keep my fingers crossed and prey that I sleep well.

Madrid to Leon

28th March 2012, I didn't sleep very well in the room even though it was a comfortable bed and that I had walked around the beautiful city of Madrid for a few hours before to try to tire myself out, lots of weird traffic and city sounds coming from outside my room in the street below, I almost jump out of the bed after hearing the screeching sounds of a jackhammer as my wake up call from outside, the shower was warm and welcoming the complimentary clean and white hotel towel was also a welcome luxury, getting out of the room at 10:15 i negotiate my way to the main train station via the underground system and a few misdirection's so by the time I get there and then que up to buy my ticket I have only 4 minutes to find the platform and then board the train to Leon!. I make it with literaly seconds to spare, good job I decided to skip the coffee stop on the way. It's so different being back here in Leon now it's Spring, the weather is lovely it's sunny and warm the temp today is 20 degrees. I have decided to stay in the central albergie as opposed to the municipal one further back along the path, more because it's central and because it wasn't open the last time I was here.I'm apprehensive but am looking forward to tomorrows walk now. I decide to follow the big crowd in the reception of the albergie and go with them all and get a blessing from the Nuns at the local Monastery before I head tail and turn into my sleeping bag for the night.

fly to Spain today

27th march 2012, Fly out of bristol airport this afternoon at 17:20 its now 10:30 in the morning jess came and picked up my dog last night (gonna miss him), I tied up all my loose ends for here at home whilst I'm away yesterday, my bag is packed and been checked again last night, I'm about to have a bath in a bit after a shave, then I'm going to get dressed then have a bowl of Museli for breakfast, I still havn't listed my backpack contents for you all but I will get around to it and hopefully take a few snaps to include for on here too. When I arrive in Madrid later this evening after my easyjet flight from Bristol I need to use the underground tube system to get to the city centre, then find myself somewhere nice to stay for the night so tomorrow I can either catch the train or bus to Leon.

5 days till Im back in Spain

In the summer I get invited to many music festivals as help people connect with laughter in the Laughter Yoga sessions I run, last year I went to Sunrise festival here in Somerset, Glastonbury festival, Secret Garden Party, Off Grid festival, Shambala festival, Croissant Neuf festival,and the Healing gathering. In 2010 I was also invited to Boom festival in Portugal, it's a week.long Psy-Trance festival that happens every other year, it's held outside and next to a huge reservoir in a very beautiful setting in the lovely hot sunshine. I have just emailed them with my proposal for the workshop I wish to run for them this year and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they will like me to come back there again to run my workshop again. I've been busy also this week tying up loose ends like my road tax/insurance for my car, setting up my rent payments exc for while I'm away. I am also very lucky to have such good friends around me two of them are superstars Jess and Lockie as they look after my beautiful dog for me, he's a Belgium Shepard cross collie and is eleven years young, my life would have been so different these past 11years if he hadn't been with me but the companionship and unconditional love I receive is unparalleled with anything else. Interesting how Dog spelt backwards is God. It was spring exquinox yesterday 21st march and the buds on the trees are appearing and the birds are singing outside too, theres even daisies popping up in amongst the grass, I love the ever changing seasons. Only 5 days till I am in Spain I know they will fly by, I don't know if anyone else gets this feeling before a marathon walk but my body seems to come up with fantom random ailments in the week before I head of, it must be the manifestation of some kind of stage fright, a totally natural reaction when one throws oneself out of ones comfort zone. I love this feeling and can't get enough of it , it's probably Jupiter's influence on me being a Sagittarius and fulfilling my dreams of constant movement and expansion, and ever wishing to expand on my knowledge and experience. I am happiest when I'm traveling or planning to go on an adventure, or even reading about adventure or travel or the World, I love reading books that I can learn something from,I often read many books at the same time, and I am currently reading my Camino guide book, another book on the south west coastal path, and another book about a guy who walks across the UK, their all very interesting too.

Hi everyone just letting you all know that ive boked my flight to Madrid with Easyjet for the third leg of my journey to Santiago for Tuesday week the 27th March i will stay one night in the City before i get the train up to Leon to carry on where i left the trail of yellow arrows equiped with my new karrimor rucksack and newly purchased guide book by a guy named John Brierly called simply a pilgrims guide to Santiago and my newly repacked kit towards my destination??.I will come back on here in few days to list my backpack contents and tell you all my thoughts. I cant wait and im excited now to be on this pilgrimage again so soon.

journeying

Hi everyone, here's what I've been up too since my last blog of to be continued a while back...... I had many factors on the decisions I made over the time spent on contemplation of my pilgrimage up until and whilst staying in the city of Leon, so here goes in my explanation of firstly the lessons I learn't and then what I decided to do next, I hope you all enjoy. Firstly I realized I had damaged both of my feet by overworking my ligaments that ran across both arches,I also had a couple of bad blisters and a very sore corn on my little toe,and couldn't see the point of carrying on walking towards Santiago in excruciating pain as the Camino will always be here. Secondly up until this point of my pilgrimage in the middle of the winter, the weather I encountered was somewhat harsh exposed to the elements but probably no different to any other winter on the Camino, I found the trail quite solitary at many times along its route which was great for inner exploration but not so good for the fact many albergies were shut after a long cold days walk, and others that said on my guide sheet that they would be open ,clearly were not when I arrived so I would then have to trek sometimes maybe another 10k to find somewhere to rest for the night which in irony was what did the damage to my feet. I then took the decision to head back to the UK and heal my body by getting a train to Madrid then a plane out of Spain. As I write this blog my rucksack is sitting next me here at home packed and almost ready to go,I have ordered and I'm just waiting for delivery a new pair of walking poles, and also lightened my loads a bit by streamlining the innards of my backpack slightly.I have been going to the gym for extended periods since coming back and doing extensive cardiovascular and weights training to improve my general stamina and strength,I have bought a great guide book a pilgrims guide to the Camino by a author called John Brierley,the maps in this guide are great and it also lists the lengths of each stage and also gives readers comprehensive information in many other ways. Although as mentioned earlier my backpack is packed and ready I have decided to go back and finish the pilgrimage in April because by then all the albergies along the way hopefully will be open,and I will have an entirely different experience meeting other pilgrims,hopefully the weather may be a bit kinder to me too. I have now put out to the universe to raise the very appreciated and needed cash to carry on this adventure and exploration, firstly to the city of Santiago then onto the coast at Muxia, then who knows where the wind will take me,as it's really not the destination that's important, it's the glory of the ride along the way. I will keep posting my thoughts and plans on here over the coming weeks, so please keep on popping back or subscribe to this post and you will receive a notification by email when I do. All donations to my cause humbly and gratefully received.

To be continued...................

To be continued...................

Leon

Leon City. I've decided to take a rest in this beautiful city, recharge my batteries rest my tired feet and explore this amazing place,I've taken many photos of the center of the old city and its like a rabbit warren also so photogenic and I've uploaded the pics onto my Flickr account which is www.Flickr.com/photos/moldaviteman Yesterday I found a spa and had a well earn't sauna,steam,Jacuzzi, and then a good massage. The albergie is quiet at the mo. Apart from mammoth snoring at night so good earplugs really recommended if like me a light sleeper, the weather is lovely and sunny out but crisp like 3' degrees.3 euros deposit gives me use of one of the bicycles that the albergie owns and after my weeks of plodding toward Santiago if feel like speedy Gonzales :'0) the hostel is closed for cleaning from 10 till 12:30 so I'm sitting in a great cafe 500yards from the door enjoying a Grande cafe con leche and a tortilla Francesca contemplating life the universe and feeling very content with life. One thing I've realized along this pilgrimage is that we normally have so many luxuries at our disposal in this abundant point in space and time, and these luxuries we have somehow taken for granted, and eventually we kid ourself's in thinking these luxuries are necessities in our life.ha ha, Walking this walk I've realized we really don't need much to enjoy and live life,only good food,clean water, practical clothes,and universal unconditional love for all and everything,and if we truly trust. In this philosophy the universe will always provide exactly what we need along the way.Buen Camino :'0)

Calzadilla de la fuega to Sahugun

Camino de la Calzadilla to Sahugun 42,000 stepometer I must mention that the albergie at Calzadilla de la fuega is being run temporarily by a German lady that wears glasses and one lense is seriously cracked.Upon arrival as it was Sunday (and their is no bars or shops in the village) I decided to pay 7 euros for the bed and another 10 euros for the Pellegrino menu to be served at 7pm the past few days I've opted for the menu at other albergies and been fed good food three courses and hot food and lots of it and been very satisfied,I should have known it was a con as she was selling rotten fruit and other things like hats and clothes and stuff that people had left behind or discarded for unrealistic prices!! It smelt a bit funky too in the office when I sat in there to register!!. When 7pm came I was served sticky stodgy spaghetti with some kind of tomato sauce and lots of oil with an egg cut up into it and was cold and was far from satisfactory and tasted foul but I was hungry so I ate it. The next course was simply a cold small sardine type fish complete with its head and skin tail the lot,it was dry and well fishy!!!.and that was all I was offered.no dessert or anything else,even though she joined me at the other side of the broken plastic table with a huge cup of noodle type soup and a plate full of what looked like deep fried battered chicken and veg for herself.I really felt unhappy with what I was given for 10 euros and she's really out to make money out of the pilgrims so she can stay traveling the Camino and i had seriously bad indigestion burping up fish taste till I went to bed a bit later.the bed was uncomfortable but the only thing that was in my favour was that early eve the woman turned the heating off and left me alone but the switch wasn't working properly so it stayed on all night so when I woke up at 7 the next morning with an inch of snow outside at least it was still warm in the albergie.I obviously quickly left and started my walk towards Sahagun in the snow,the temp.outside was just above freezing and when I got a little way out of the village it started to rain,my feet seem to be aching loads today and I'm finding the track hard going I've got about 22k to go today and have my waterproofs on.I find it easier to walk along the road as it seems flatter and theirs no traffic on this road as they all use the motorway that runs parallel to it, at lunchtime I find a good bar the only one so far in the dew villages I've passed through and have a welcome couple of coffees and a big slice of tortilla I got about 6ks to get to Sahugun so go a bit slower after lunch and reach there at about 2 o'clock in the afternoon I walk all around the town only to find all of the albergies shut and the towns having a siesta so no shops open.theres a train station in Sahugun so I decide to jump on the train half an hours journey to Leon instead of the three days walk and rest here for a few days as my feet are suffering so bad.when I arrived in Leon I walked from the station and visit the amazing cathedral before heading to the albergie for a well earnt rest.I'm totally exhausted but feel so good in my head and in my heart.lets hope the rest will revitalize my poor feet :)

Carrion de los condes to Calzadilla de la cueza

Carrion des condes to Calzadilla de la cueza. 23450 stepometer
My feet were aching today so I walked slowly leaving the albergie and town at 9 it wasn't so cold today as it has been but still the fog and low visabilty, but with added damp mist so rain jacket was defiantly needed I plodded the very straight track for hours it felt like being on a no ending conveyor belt I couldn't stop for long when I really needed too as my muscles are constantly cramping in the cold when I do and my body gets freezing when I had walked for about 3 hrs a man stopped in his car and gave my a flyer for his albergie I asked him how much further to the next village and he said 5ks I wished it a lot less but it was just over an hour later I reached the village the albergie here has heating but not in the bathroom and I declined the outdoor swimming pool and I spend the rest of today relaxing my sore muscles in my sleeping bag in bed near the radiator happy,goodnight.

Itero de la Vega to Carrion de los Condes

Itero De La Vega to Carrion Des Condes 49,400 stepometer. woke up today at 7:30 and it's freezing cold in the albergie outside of my sleeping bag so I very quickly get dressed and pack my bag up and haul out the room,the freezing fog is very close today,I have a quick coffee and croissant and head out of town with all that I have in my bag to wear on.theres ice floating all around me in the air and visibility is about 50ft but the path is flat and the stones underfoot are small so I'm blessed.I suddenly see two huge foxes one chasing the other across the field ahead of me,they run across the field so fast!. A little while later I see a huge bird of prey flying about 20ft up in the air and making a screeching sound.about 8ks into the walk I reach a canal and follow this for a while and by this time all my clothes have a thick dusting of ice on and I look like an ice man now.soon I reach a town called Fromista and find a bar and stop for lunch of some tasty hot paella,I also find a pharmacy and treat myself to some silicon insoles for my boots which have the instant effect of cushioning my sore feet so I decide to push on another 5ks to the next village called Poblation de Campos here I decide that I can still Walk on its now 3:10pm I figure it's another 13ks to the next town so plod on and listen to my music for a while it's 5.50 when I reach this town. Called Villalcazar de surga only to find all the accommodation shut,ad I'm walking into town I see a small sparrow on the road not looking well so I Picked the bird up and put into the warm pocket of my jumper,theres a bar in the village so I quickly have a hot chocolate drink and a huge slice of tortilla before walking quickly the next 6k to the next town here thankfully I find a convent to stay in,the heating is on the showers are seriously hot and I certainly feel like I've landed,I'm in heaven on earth!! I'm the only pilgrim staying the night and have the place to myself I'm too tired and it's too late to go out and get some food but I'm warm and comfy and very tired,goodnight :) when I wake up the sparrow is chirping away at me and obviously rested so I open the window and as soon as I do it quickly flies away into the distance rested and warm from sleeping in my jumper :)

Hontanas to Itero de la Vega 29,500 woke up today late like 8am instead of 7 ,it's freezing inside and out I quickly dress and pack put all my clothes I have on again, and have a quick coffee from the machine downstairs and get out into the freezing fog again, I walk for an hour or so and pass an ancient derelict monastery before reaching Castrojeres about an hour and a half later.I find a shop in the centre and buy bread ham salami and chocolate it's almost too cold to make a sandwich and eat it outside but I manage too as I'm hungry and have Jo choice and really need the energy and I see a huge hill a few ks away that im going to have to climb so I grin and bear the cold. After my snack I quickly walk out of the village and start the climb up the hill it's very steep and long and by the time I'm half way up I'm well into the freezing cloud,I didn't hang around at the top to savour the victory of the climb and decide to push on down the other side much to the complaint of my poor feet.I find the last 3 or 4ks so hard and almost stumble into Itero and the Albergie,once inside I have to plead with the owner to put on the heating on as it's as cold inside as outside im hoping it warms up soon.

Burgos to Hontanas. 43,300. Woke early today and had a few cups of tea in the albergie and managed to fit my protesting feet into my boots then left Burgos at about 9am after breakfast of Spanish omelet with ham and cheese in the city by the cathedral. It's soooo cold I have all of my clothes on and two hats,every fountain I pass is frozen too, when I reached the city limits visibility was very little and I seem to be walking into a freezing fog cloud everything's in a suspended animation, every plant seems to be frozen and it's almost eery.I reach a town called tardajos a few hours latter and the sun finally breaks through I decide to have a break on a bench facing the sun and a little old lady appears from her house to join me she brings me an apple.and a wine bottle filled with water and we chat for about an hour together me talking in English and her in Spanish neither of us understanding the other but both happy to share this bench and the sunshine,I finish my break and say goodbye and walk onto the next village a few ks away here I take my shoes and socks off and let my throbbing feet have a well.earnt Sun bath. Here I decide ti push onto the next village about 8ks on called Honillas del Camino up and over a huge hill as it's beautiful and warm I stop.at the top and have another sun bath for my feet and then descend to the village below,only to find it like a ghost village with no shops or bars just the albergie that's like a bomb shelter with a temperature of a fridge!!.
I deside not to stay here ad I'm hungry and push on another 10ks to Hontanas as it's now 5:10 I know I will get there after 7 and in the dark its up and down a few hills and getting cold, every time I stop my hip muscles are locking up.it was pick black with no moon by the time I reach the village and luckily enough there is a bar and they make me some lovely food.I'm so tired I can hardly eat it but do as I feel ravenous and then I go and have a great shower in the only albergie open.the place is freezing inside with no heating and luckily only two other pilgrims staying here tonight so I wrap myself up inside my sleeping bag with two thick blankets for warmth take a couple of ibruprofens and dome valerian tincture and soon fall fast asleep.

Ages to Burgos 31,500 stepometer
This mornings walk from Ages is very clear sky and I am walking towards the moon setting over the hill in front of me there's a crispness to the air it's just above freezing and everything natural around me has a dusting of ice on. I walk up a hill that is very rocky underfoot and hard to walk on the sun comes up as the moon sets and when I reach the top of the hill I can see Burgos below and,about 15k away. I then descend the hill and make my way towards the beautiful city with its gothic cathedral and ancient architecture I prey for healing for my family my friends the world and myself constantly as I walk.I'm feeling very tired my feet are throbbing and I love the way I'm humbled every day by the end of my walk, but elated and feeling an amaxing warmth inside my heart.Thankyou so much for calling my soul to this Camino.

Santo dom de la calzada to belorado. 29,000 stepometer
Rolling hills, crisp air, beautiful villages, lovely friendly people, and good conversation with my new friends along the path today.

Belorado to ages. 37,300 stepometer
Today's walk was beautiful amazing scenery, spirits with me,I've been walking through lush forests sweet smells all around me the suns out and the sky is blue, met a pilgrim on her way to Rome from Santiago full power!! I'm in a lovely municipal albergie in a village called Ages im tired have a few blisters my corn on my little toe is sore and my ankles are throbbing but I am very happy and feel the universe helping me along,and I thank you :)

Santo dom de la calzada to belorado. 29,000 stepometer

logrono to najera.

Logrono to Najera 40,231 stepometer
Had a weird night's sleep last night even though I was the only pilgrim staying the night, I woke up three times from vivid dreams so much for the new bed I was in and the beautiful peace around me.
It was the three kings festival yesterday and I seemed to be the only one out and walking the streets apart from the street cleaners who obviously had their work well cut out today with loads of revelers rubbish just strewn everywhere.the temperature was cold and it was raining and the wind was coming at me from the front which made walking interesting to say the least,on the outskirts of the town I met three pilgrims mesong,kim,and Richard, two from Korea and one Richard from Holland.we all walk together to Navarrete 13ks away where the sun came out briefly and we sat out of the wind in the town and ate lunch.we all declined going into the albergie there and walked onto ventosa another 4ks where our list said that the albergie was open,but when we arrived it was shut!!
We had a coffee in the local bar got a pilgrim stamp then as it was now 3pm and we still had another 12ks till the next town called Najera we quickly walked onwards,so a lesson learnt that it's worth ringing ahead this time of year as many that say there open clearly are not,I should have stopped in Navarette when I had the chance,along the way I see many birds of prey and a few rainbows in the sky,and fields and fields of grape vines and I could see for many miles around me,in Najera I had to walk into the centre of town and cross the river with many trout swimming in it's crystal waters and turn left and walk along the bank for another 1/2k before reaching the albergie.I have decided to ditch my tin of dubbing my bivvi bag and a bag of wipes that i had to lighten my load,the poncho has been disregardedand my pack now feels soooo much lighter.I decided this as my rucksack has a cover and my gore tex jacket and trousers suffice and the fact Richard has travelled from Rotterdam with a very small pack with just his sleeping bag in, a book toothbrush, deodorant,and his journal book,he gets water along the way and when he needs to wash his clothes he does it as he's going along,fair play.Kim seems to have the world on his shoulders and in his pack,so just shows we all carry different amounts toward's Santiago.mesong has the biggest blisters I have ever seen on the soles of her feet bless her she's very brave,we both must have looked like a couple of pigeons waddling into Najera.
I know I'm gonna sleep well tonight!!.
Good night :)

my first blog

Hello and welcome. to anyone reading this blog,I have decided to start blogging as I was previously putting things on facebook but as this goes out to all my family and friends news feed, and maybe they do or don't like it. so I have decided to seperate them open it up to the general public and see how it goes.
A little bit about me.
I am 41 years young and if you know me and didn't know this fact you do now.
hope YOU like my blogs if you do,please let me know as I hope this to be a source of inspiration.I have listed tge amount of steps in each days walk and my stride is 75cms,so I will leave it up to you to work out the distances if you wanted.
I am a spiritual being but not a religious person but respect others and have a deep.respect for the planet its beings and our impact upon it.I have an affinity with nature and the cycles of the moon.love life and what I do.
I believe in karma " you reap what you sow"
and I've found that life is best served with a open mind and a healthy dose of spontaneous laughter.
Don't take life too seriously as none of us get out alive anyway :)

los arcos to logrono

Estella to los arcos

Puente le reine to Estella. 30,918 stepometer

Puente la Reine to Estella
It's the 18th December 2011 and my birthday it turned out I was not the only one that didn't sleep last night everyone complained of the poor guy coughing and the other guy who was snooring and their broken sleep,funnily enough everyone apart from the one that was snooring!.
Everyone set off together in the rain just as it was getting light,I decided to stop in a coffee shop and as it is my birthday I treat myself and have fresh orange juice followed by a couple of chocolate croissants and a hot chocolate drink to wash it all down with,mmmm.
The walk today was hard because of the length 22ks of ups and downs, and theres an old roman road to navigate along in the middle of it for a few ks,all old cobbles and not one of them laid flat.beautiful countryside surrounding me and by 9am the rain had stopped and the sun was trying to come through the dense clouds,I even managed to get a few shadow shots of me on the path with my camera.up until now I had been using just one walking stick for support and the knee on my other unsupported leg started to get painful in the end I had to strap it up with a crepe bandage and smother it in tiger balm.by the time I was 8ks from Estella the pain was unbearable so I result to ibuprofen and singing at the top of my voice,fortunately there wasn't anyone in sight or sound to hear my primeval type screams resembling a song,in fact it's so peaceful and solitary on this walk this time of year.the assault on my senses being my main company and my inner voice constantly guiding and pushing me along.just outside Estella there's a section of the trail that's just been worked on but not finished and it had started to drizzle with rain again.the mud had a lot of clay in and seemed to just clump In my boots and by the time I was over this bit I had platform boots made of mud that didn't help with my knee pain.
It was well.worth reaching the albergie in Estella as I was given a plate a paella by my hosts.later when all the other pilgrims had arrived we all.had a lovely salad followed by really tasty chicken soup,I was then treated to a video made earlier that day by the Koreans singing me happy birthday in English and korean they even drew a birthday cake on the path in the video complete with candles.
I decided that I would not want to be anywhere else in the world than right here right now.

zariquiegui to Puente la reine, 18500 stepometer

Zariquiegui to Puente la reine
Woke up today at 6:30 and the rain is still chucking it out of the sky,had a lovely breakfast of coffee and toast with homemade gooseberry jam,mmm tasty!
It was still raining but not as hard as earlier,I filled my water container in the village outside the church and headed out and up.the path is very steep up to the ridge from here and very loose stones I seemed to go one step forward two steps backwards,and the rain got worse,the ridge has many wind turbines ontop and the strange sound was beconing ne on,I asked the universe to please stop raining at the top so I could photograph the metal pilgrims,and just as I was at the top it did!! Just enough time to take a few pictures.then the heavens seemed to open into heavy rain again.I wrapped my poncho around my rucksack adjusted my jackets hood and ploughed on down the slippery slope on the other side.all around me I could see snow on the other hills and the temperature dropped,at one point the rain was coming at me sideways.
I was loving the fact I had good waterproofs and Puente la reine was a welcome sight when I came into the town too.the hostel soon filled up with many lovely pilgrims and that night we all.put money in together and had a great meal after working out how to use the touch control cooker.many stories were shared and I retired to bed late.it wouldn't have mattered as I didn't get much sleep that night as the man on the bunk above me was coughing all night and my bed was shaking everything he did,he seemed to be having a competition with another man who was snooring really loud too at the other end of the room,and I had my earplugs in (good gel ones).I even got up in the night and gave the poor guy above me a glass of water because I felt so sorry for him.

Pamplona to zariquiegui, 9530 stepometer

Pamplona to zariquiegui is only 10k and theres a private albergie in the small village.just as I was leaving the city it started to rain so I doned my waterproofs and decided to take todays walk in an amble.
Every muscle in my legs ankles and buttocks is telling me off, but I find that after half an hours walking that normally warms them up and the aches become bearable.
2ks into the walk the rain became heavy and I could see it darker in the sky ahead.
Walking ttoday towards a huge line of wind generators ontop of the ridge ahead.
A stream ahead has broken its bank and turned the path into the stream instead.the path just keeps on climbing and the rain soon becomes a torrent,I'm loving the power of nature and it's ability to cleanse on many levels.I can see fresh snow in the hills around me and the temp is cold. I finally reached the albergie in zariquiegui and well worth the effort it was the best ive stayed in so far, and Belin the lady who runs it is an angel I was treated to a bacon mushroom an black bean soup,followed by a dish of fish in a tomato sauce (it's Friday today) with lots of fresh bread then a desert of baked custard, I was offered a bottle of wine,but as I don't drink I politely declined.
This place was like a home from homes,It was here I learnt that Basque music has very Celtic resemblance,with bagpipes and flute.

zubiri to Pamplona, 35,000 stepometer

the pension that's open in zubiri is immaculate and has a bath and bidet but alas I had to say goodbye early as I knew todays 22k walk to Pamplona was going to be a challenge mainly because if the distance and level of terain I had done over the past few days and the fact my muscles were not happy with me.
I left the comfort of the pension and ignored the bright lights of the village shop almost screaming at me to indulge and headed out I was about 5k along the walk before realising I only had a bag of raisins mixed with sunflower seeds which had to suffice for the next 10k I didn't find another chance ti find a shop for food till the outskirts of Pamplona,by which time I was shaking and slightly glaucomic.
I very much learnt that it's wise to stock up when the opportunity arises or go hungry!
the weather was good today.
Pamplona is beautiful city very safe at night and the people are very friendly.

roncevaux to zubiri, 32,450 stepometer

I wasn't relishing todays walk as the only albergie open next from roncevaux is zubiri 21.4ks but again the jump into nature was so wild the forest here is magical the path very hard as a huge hill has to be climbed 10ks into the walk but again nature helped me I spotted many falcons flying and spotted many mushrooms growing amongst silver birch and box trees.
very peaceful place.

valcarlos to roncevaux, 20,000 stepometer

Today only the second days walk started off on the road then led onto a mountain path that lead next to a river crystal clear.huge ancient beech and chestnut trees all around and chestnuts all under foot.eventually after many hours and heading into a cold wind the ridge was reached in knee deep.leaves giving a strange sense of solitude but huge sense of achievement.
it was raining and strong wild at the top so I didn't hang around too long.
the strange huge gothic monstrosity of the monastery at roncevaux felt very safe and solid and I slept well that night.

st jean-pied-le-port to valcarlos, 18500 stepometer

no amount of bag packing or pre walk advice prepared me for the anticipation felt on this first day of walking,its a day filled with many ups and downs, eventually the path I was on gets really high into the pyrannes and much achievement was felt when valcarlos was reached later that day.
I stopped at a place on what felt like border area called Vento there is a supermarket there for supplies it was a little more half way from sjpp to valcarlos.
the albergie in valcarlos is number operating and they all seem to know the combination to let me in and the bed and shower was very welcoming.

st jean-pied-le-port

H

eres where I started the walk from on the 10th December 2011 I chose to drive down through France to this point,many start from their homes simply putting a rucksack on their backs and saying goodbye for whenever!!!
on the first night in sjpp there was 5 pilgrims staying at the one albergie open I got chatting with one man Michael from chzec republic who had set off from Prague 4 months previously,and one French man john Lou who had set off from Paris three nonth back.
the town itself is an ancient bastilion and very picturesque with an amazing citadel at the top well worth exploring.
the day I arrived it was cool and scattered clouds and I could see huge rainbow trout swimming lasily in the river under the towns bridge.
there's plenty of places to park a car and leave it in the town,theirs a lidls shop and good bakeries plus a good tourist information.
the fraternity if st James office is very easy to find and they are very helpful.
they have upto date list of open albergies all along the French route from there onwards.
plus a map showing you the contours of the days ahead.they have free internet there too but it's very antiquated and slow but free so cant complain.
beautiful cobbled streets and ancient houses all set around a panorama of hills.

pictures of the Camino trail

here's the link to my pics that I'm taking along my way,enjoy
http://www. flickr.com/photos/moldaviteman/

backpack contents

55 litre rucksack .
3season sleeping bag.
silk sleeping bag liner doubles as a scarf.
emergency bivvy bag.
40litre dry bag with these contents if not worn.
lined trousers.
unlined trousers that turn into shorts.
three pairs of underwear.
three pairs of bamboo socks ( like silk) used as first layer.
three pairs of technical hiking socks.
two synthetic t shirts.
one thermal long sleeve top.
one technical mountain top.
micro fleece.
gore tex jacket and over trousers.
thermal hat,leather waterproof gloves,a snood type scarf.
poncho,with many uses!
in the bottom of My pack I have.
sunglasses, spare laces,spare feet for my poles,phone charger,headphones,continental plug,knife,spork,tin of dubbing for my boots.
first aid kit.
inside the first aid kit I have plasters blister plasters,scissors,crepe bandage,ibruprofen tablets,valerian tincture,peppermint oil,tiger balm,comfrey ointment,and a Chinese sports spray called zheng-gu-shui I life saver indeed!!
I also carry and take every day a multivitamin/ mineral mix and ginseng and gurrana tablets,and spiralina too.
I have a 2litre camelbac type bladder bag for water.
money belt with passport,money,cash card,European health card,all in separate waterproof bags.
and my boots are my leather and gore tex lined well broken in berghaus's
I walk with Nordic poles too.
I carry dried fruit, nuts, seeds,boiled sweets, fresh bread cheese,salami,and have a huge bag of organic clipper t bags with me!!!
this list may sound huge but it's the bare necessities and fits nicely in my pack on my back.

I really wanted to do something unusual so decided to embark on this spiritual pilgrimage almost spontaneously after deciding that I didn't want anything to do with the consumer madness that was going on all around me early December 2011 so this blog should say in December but I'm starting this blog in January so hence the title.
I have added the amount of steps on my stepometer next to each days walk and will be coming back every now and then to add more when I think of it or if someone asks for info fir that day.
hope you enjoy reading my adventures.
"buen Camino"